This Egypt travel story starts with everything I was warned about, scams, chaos, hassle, and none of it really happened. Kind cab drivers, almost no hustling, incredible koshary, and a Christmas surprise at The Walk. Here’s what my December trip to Egypt actually looked like.

Before I booked my Egypt trip, I spent hours reading horror stories online. Taxi drivers who charge 10x the price. Touts who follow you for blocks. Scams at every pyramid corner. The internet had practically convinced me that Egypt was a beautiful country designed to empty your wallet. I almost talked myself out of it.

I’m glad I didn’t.

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1) The Cab Drivers No One Talks About

Here’s the thing about Egyptian cab drivers that nobody seems to mention: a lot of them are genuinely, unreservedly kind people.

I know that’s not what you’ve heard. The “Cairo taxi scam” is practically a travel content genre at this point. And look, I’m sure those experiences exist. But across my entire trip, I met cab driver after cab driver who went out of their way to make me feel welcome. We talked about cricket, about Bollywood, about their families, about the best places to eat that weren’t in any guidebook. One driver insisted on stopping so I could get a proper look at a view he thought I’d miss if I didn’t see it right then.

I ended up exchanging numbers with a few of them. Not because I needed a contact for my next ride, but because by the end of the conversation, it genuinely felt like we’d become friends. That’s a rare thing when you’re travelling solo in a country where you don’t speak the language.

“Egypt has scam drivers” is not a lie. But “all Egyptian drivers are scammers” absolutely is. My experience was the complete opposite of what I was prepared for, and I think that’s worth saying loudly.

2) On Scams: Almost None

I’ll keep this section short because, honestly, there isn’t much to report.

I travelled with the usual traveller instincts: agreed on prices before getting into taxis, stayed aware in crowded areas, and politely declined anything that felt off. A couple of times around the pyramids, someone tried the classic “free photo, tip later” approach. I said no, they moved on. That was it.

No one followed me aggressively. No one tried to drag me into a shop. No elaborate schemes. For a country that has the reputation it does, I came away genuinely surprised at how relaxed and trouble-free the whole thing was. Basic awareness goes a very long way in Egypt.

3) The Food. Especially the Koshary.

I did not expect Egyptian food to be this good. And I especially did not expect to become mildly obsessed with Koshary within 24 hours of landing.

If you don’t know Koshary, let me introduce you to your new favourite budget meal: rice, lentils, pasta, fried onions, chickpeas, and a spiced tomato sauce, all layered into one bowl and sold for almost nothing. It sounds chaotic. It tastes incredible. It is the ultimate Egyptian street food, and I had it more times than I care to admit. Every local place does it slightly differently, and finding your favourite version becomes a little game you play without realising it.

Beyond Koshary, the food scene in Cairo genuinely surprised me. Fresh bread, slow-cooked meats, mezze spreads that keep arriving at the table, strong sweet tea. Egypt feeds you well if you’re willing to eat where the locals eat.

4) Basilico Pizza at The Walk Cairo

I visited Egypt in December, which turned out to be an unexpectedly great decision.

The weather was perfect, the tourist crowds were thinner than peak season, and then there was The Walk Cairo — all dressed up for Christmas. I wasn’t expecting Christmas decorations in Egypt, but there they were: lights, trees, festive setups all along the promenade. It gave the whole place a warm, almost surreal atmosphere that I genuinely wasn’t prepared for.

That’s where I found Basilico Pizza. I walked in mostly because it looked inviting, stayed because the Christmas decor inside was genuinely charming, and ended up having one of the most unexpectedly enjoyable meals of the trip. Good pizza, great ambiance, and the kind of evening where you’re not in a hurry to leave. If you’re in Cairo around the holidays, The Walk is worth an evening just for the atmosphere alone.

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Things to Remember Before You Go

Would I Go Back?

Without a second thought.

Egypt is one of those destinations that gives you something different depending on how you show up to it. If you arrive defensive and closed off, you’ll probably find reasons to justify that. If you arrive curious and open, you’ll find a country that’s incredibly alive, layered, and generous with its warmth.

I went in expecting to be scammed and left having made friends with my cab drivers. That’s Egypt for me. And I think it can be Egypt for you too.

Travel stories without the highlight reel · @traveltalesbypiyush